The town of Raub in Malaysia is riding the wave of China's insatiable appetite for luxury durians, a trend that has transformed its economy and put it on the global map.
As you drive through Raub, the iconic spiky fruit is everywhere, a testament to its economic significance. The scent of durians lingers in the air, carried by trucks winding through the mountains, leaving a subtle fragrance in their wake. The town's love for durians is evident in its art and signage, with murals and sculptures celebrating the Musang King variety, known as the 'Hermès of durians' for its buttery, bittersweet taste.
Once a gold mining town, Raub's economy has taken on a new golden hue, thanks to the lucrative durian trade. It's part of a larger trend in Southeast Asia, where towns like Raub are at the heart of a global durian rush driven by China's growing demand. In 2024, China imported a staggering $7 billion worth of durians, a threefold increase from 2020, with over 90% of the world's durian exports now headed there.
"Even a small percentage of Chinese consumers wanting durians is more than enough business," says Chee Seng Wong, factory manager of Fresco Green, a durian exporter in Raub. Wong recalls how farmers in the 1990s economic downturn cut down durian trees to make way for oil palms, the country's main cash crop. But now, the trend has reversed, with oil palms being chopped down to make room for durians once again.
The durian's aroma, likened to cabbage, sulphur, or sewers, is a polarizing scent, banned on some public transport and hotels. Yet, it has found a growing fanbase in China, where it's an exotic gift, a status symbol, and a star ingredient in culinary creations like durian chicken hotpot and durian pizza. Thailand and Vietnam are China's top durian suppliers, but Malaysia's market share is rapidly expanding, thanks to premium varieties like the Musang King.
Durian prices vary widely. In Southeast Asia, where they're abundant, the average price starts at less than $2. But luxe versions like the Musang King can cost anywhere from $14 to $100, depending on quality and the season's harvest. Xu Xin, a 33-year-old durian seller from northeastern China, was blown away by the taste of Malaysian durians. He's now on a mission to find the best durians to import back home.
Raub's durian success stories are abundant. Lu Yuee Thing, known as 'Uncle Thing' in town, is one such success. He owns a durian shop and several farms, and his family business has made him a millionaire. His sons help with transportation, while his daughters manage the accounting and finances. "Durian has contributed greatly to our economy here," Uncle Thing says.
Farming is hard work, and at 72, Uncle Thing wakes up at dawn every day to collect ripe durians from his hilly farm. He navigates the terrain carefully, collecting durians that dangle from trees or rest on nets close to the ground. A few years ago, a falling durian landed on his shoulder, leaving him with occasional throbbing pain. "It looks easy, but farming is not an easy job," he says.
Once harvested, durians are brought to Uncle Thing's shop, where they're sorted into baskets based on size and shape. Grade A durians are large and round, while Grade C are small and oddly shaped. In the middle of the sorting floor sits a lone basket reserved for Grade AA durians, the cream of the crop, destined for China.
China's love for durians has become a diplomatic tool, with Beijing signing trade agreements with major producers like Thailand, Vietnam, and Malaysia, as well as emerging suppliers like Cambodia, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Laos. These deals coincide with China's infrastructure investments in the region, with the China-Laos Railway transporting over 2,000 tonnes of fruit daily, mostly Thai durians.
However, this rush to meet China's demand has its challenges. Food safety concerns arose last year when Chinese authorities found carcinogenic chemical dyes in Thai durians, believed to enhance their yellow color. In Vietnam, many coffee farmers switched to durians, driving up global coffee prices already affected by severe weather. And in Raub, a turf war has erupted, with authorities felling thousands of durian trees planted on state land, allegedly without permission. Farmers argue they've used the land for decades without issue and now face eviction or lease payments to continue farming.
Meanwhile, a potential coup may be brewing in China's Hainan province, where years of experimentation are paying off. Hainan's 2025 durian harvest is expected to reach 2,000 tonnes. China has long aimed for self-sufficiency in food, as it has in industries like renewables and AI. As it reaps the benefits of durian diplomacy, China is eyeing what state media calls 'durian freedom,' a future where it's no longer reliant on Thai and Vietnamese suppliers.
Hainan's homegrown durians made a splash in 2023, but accounted for less than 1% of China's consumption that year. Uncle Thing remains unconcerned for now, focusing on his farms and increasing yields. Others in Raub are more confident, believing Malaysian durians are still the best. But as China moves towards 'durian freedom,' the Musang King's reign may be under threat.
