Bold claim: Affordable, high-quality burgers in San Francisco aren’t just a myth—they’re happening, right in Noe Valley and North Beach. Randy Kaplan, a restaurateur with four decades of experience, proves the point by turning long-standing kitchen know-how into a wallet-friendly fast-casual staple. Eight years ago, driven by a shortage of accessible, good burgers, he drew on his history in the industry and launched Hi-Way Burger to deliver a simple, value-packed experience.
Hi-Way Burger keeps things straightforward: a made-to-order burger and a hearty order of fries for $14.45. The real value, though, comes from the ingredients—local, organic, or grass-fed wherever possible. By San Francisco standards, that price is strikingly competitive. In fact, this combo undercuts Beep’s Burgers in Ingleside, a city-wide benchmark for affordable, locally owned burgers and fries.
Yet Kaplan worries about sustainability in the face of rising costs. This year, ground beef prices climbed by roughly 15%, and he has not yet raised prices. The restaurant sources fresh buns daily from Pacific Coast Baking Co. in South San Francisco, uses Straus organic milk for shakes, and peels potatoes for fries every day. Even the pickle supply is locally produced and hand-prepared on site. The pantry and counter reflect a careful balance between quality and value, a deliberate choice in a market notorious for sticker shock.
Kaplan’s philosophy is simple: offer great burgers at honest prices. He emphasizes minimizing cost transfers to customers while recognizing that some costs can’t be avoided. “I want to serve the best hamburger I can with the best ingredients and with really good people,” he says. “Hardworking, trustworthy people who are paid well and feel a little challenged.”
Key staff member Francisco Tornez—Kaplan’s general manager and longtime collaborator—embodies the relationship-driven approach of Hi-Way. The two have worked together for 37 years, sharing a background that includes early days slinging burritos in Santa Barbara, where Kaplan opened his first restaurant at age 19. Tornez’s efficiency is legendary; Kaplan notes his speed in prepping chicken is remarkable.
Their partnership spans multiple ventures over the years, including two Hi-Way Burgers, Roadside BBQ in San Rafael, and Pancho’s on Geary Boulevard in Laurel Heights. The name Pancho isn’t just a moniker—it’s a veritable nickname that reflects the duo’s shared history.
Despite their successes, not every project endured. In 2020, Kaplan closed the original Pancho’s on Polk Street and moved on from the original Roadside BBQ location as well as another outpost in Rohnert Park. The rationale isn’t about a lack of appetite for expansion; it’s about the economics of different cuisines. Barbecue and Mexican fare demand longer prep times, more labor, and costlier ingredients. A 15-hour smoked brisket, for example, carries significant risk if it doesn’t sell by day’s end. In contrast, a smash burger is prepared to order in two to three minutes, with far less waste.
Even so, Kaplan remains committed to value across his menus. He’s consistently aimed to keep entrees in the $10–$12 range, a principle he maintains regardless of economic conditions. “When the economy’s good or bad, there should still be something for a good burger or burrito,” he explains.
A recent visit to the North Beach location offered a tangible glimpse of the concept in action. The restaurant’s atmosphere is unpretentious and retro, featuring a vintage-style hamburger press and framed black-and-white hot dog advertisements. A quarter-pound burger (priced at $9.95, or $10.95 with cheese) and a generous fry portion arrive within minutes. The burger leaves a lasting impression: a sturdy patty with a crispy-to-tender balance, dressed with shredded lettuce, caramelized red onion, tomato, and a distinctive secret sauce that blends mayo, ketchup, rosemary, and pickles (the exact formula remains a delicious secret). The fries, flat-cut and thoroughly flavorful, stand out for their crisp exterior and fluffy interior—an improvement over many fast-food styles.
Kaplan’s culinary journey began in Isla Vista with McBurley’s in 1985, a flame-broiled burger shop he started with UCSB friends. The early venture taught him the harsh lessons of entrepreneurship—risk, improvisation, and customer-focused experimentation. After graduation in 1989, he launched a Santa Barbara burrito spot called the Cantina, where his partnership with Tornez began. Tornez progressed from dishwasher and prep cook to recipe developer and manager, eventually becoming a core member of Kaplan’s restaurant family. Today, roughly half of their 20-employee team has been with them since the Noe Valley launch in 2018.
“I’ve always been a fast-casual guy,” Kaplan reflects. “I figured I’d circle back to where I started.” The core idea remains intact: approachable, fast, delicious food without sacrificing quality. |
Locations and hours reflect a steady rhythm of service. Hi-Way Burger in Noe Valley sits at 3853 24th St., open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday through Saturday until 10 p.m. The Columbus Avenue outpost in North Beach, opened in 2022, operates Monday through Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m., Friday–Saturday 11 a.m.–1 a.m., and Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Have an affordable go-to lunch in San Francisco that you swear by? Share your tips for our “Eat Cheap” series at madeline.wells@sfgate.com and help others discover budget-friendly, tasty options.
Dec 15, 2025
Food Editor
Jessica Yadegaran continues to lead SFGATE’s food desk, drawing on 17 years of Bay Area dining coverage. You can reach her at jessica.yadegaran@sfgate.com.
